At Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitana in Coney Island, pizzas have been made in the same way in the same spot since 1924. Anthony (Totonno) Pero, grandfather to Louise Ciminieri, Frank Balzano, Antoinette (Annette) Balzano, and great grandfather to Lawrence Ciminieri, immigrated from Naples and began making pizzas for Lombardi’s grocery store on Spring Street in Manhattan. Because of Totonno’s work, Lombardi’s became the first licensed pizzeria in America and Totonno became the first pizzaiolo.
Eighty nine years later, the grandchildren continue to operate the restaurant making Totonno’s of Coney Island the oldest, continually run, family-owned pizzeria in America, and possibly the world. Louise’s (Cookie) passion, dedication, and old world mindset kept the legacy of her grandfather continuing into the next century.
Many hardships were faced throughout the years…including two major fires and Hurricane Sandy, which by the way, visited 20 months after Totonno’s reopened from the second fire. But, the family always found a way to rebuild with the help of many friends and supporters. Totonno’s owners were overwhelmed to receive a call from the owners of Geja’s Café in Chicago and was told that they would raise money at their restaurant for the benefit of Totonno’s rebuilding efforts. In the beginning of January 2013, Totonno’s received a check from Jeff Lawler, the owner, and Totonno’s was able to purchase their dough machine. So in essence, Annette said “their dough permitted us to make our dough”. The Totonno family will be forever grateful to the staff and patrons of their friends in Chicago, among the many others who lent their support.
And today, the Totonno Family, along with Michael Gammone, their long-time pizzaiolo, and Migdalia Catanzaro, his assistant, and with the Lord’s blessings…the Family has much gratitude to be able to carry on their grandfather’s legacy and his Neapolitan traditions.
In addition to using the finest ingredients imported from Italy, handmade mozzarella, and daily made dough (never refrigerated), the real secret is believed to be Passion. Passion for grandpa’s hard work and resiliency during difficult times, passion for tradition, (mostly nothing every changes down to the nails in the walls), and passion for having that “never give up attitude”.
